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  • #16
    I use an inside bore mic.with a dial indicator on it. I measure the crank with an outside mic....lock it there....and then use it to zero the bore mic. Then stick it in the bore with bearings and the reading is the difference between the crank diameter and the inside bearing diameter.

    You can do it with snap gauges.....and measure with a good outside mic (they are graduated down to .0001's)...but you need good eyes! And a very steady hand with the snap gauge. Easy to move it when removing it from the bore.

    There are high $$$ bore mic's...but for this stuff it's not the pure measurement of the bore size...it's the difference between the two. You can get very inexpensive bore mics that will work just fine.

    https://www.amazon.com/inch-Imperial...ore+micrometer


    JIM

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    • #17
      Now I see!

      The way you do it is much more precise than the way i was thinking. Plus, I noted on the bore mic that the ends of the measuring tube are almost pointed, unlike the "snap gauges" I was thinking about. That gives you a much better indicator of the actual bore. Starting with the crank measurement and locking that in also helps in eliminating the extra math. Glad I asked! Thanks!

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      • #18
        Got home from the PRI show and found a box from Diamond!!

        Will get it in tomorrow...now just need a cam and some heads.....



        JIM Attached Images

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        • #19
          Man!

          Now THAT's purdy!

          It IS the same as the others, right?

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          • #20
            Yes sir. Got it installed tonight..so all pistons are in place. Gotta do a little clearancing in the valve pocket to match my 2.350" valves. They are made for 2.300's. I've got an in-head cutter...just need my head back. Tape everything off and have at it!!

            Didn't torque the rods yet. That takes some time with the ARP stretch gauge...so I'll do that one night this week as I wait on a cam and heads to arrive.


            JIM

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