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cheating in plain sight, or is it really cheating???

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  • cheating in plain sight, or is it really cheating???

    I grew up with and around a lot and I mean a lot of really good racers, and top notch mechanics, All of them have had fast stuff and won a lot, I would like this to be thread for them to share a few secrets so they wont be lost to time

  • #2
    My first one, we all know putting a switch on the alternator to turn it off is worth a little right??

    well guess whats worth about 25 hp and 2 tenths ???

    remove the alternator spacer from between the alternator and cylinder head, grind about 1/8 inch off the spacer and reinstall, it mis aligns the alternator pulley just enough.

    its fine driving normal could go a million miles that way, but the first time you rev it 6-7k, the alternator belt jumps off killing the parasitic drag of the alternator and water pump!!!!! good for one 1/4 mile pass!!

    your welcome and now you know!!! ala the grey ghost

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    • #3
      LOL...it did it everytime! At the time we just figured you couldn't make a belt stay on...they we figured you out!!

      JIM

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      • #4
        Hahaha yeah, ive done it, to BBC, pontiacs, and even om my sbf 347 stroker coupe, its been secret along time. Didnt want tobtake it to the grave, any of you other old bastards got any thing?

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        • #5
          any of you other old bastards got any thing?
          Yeah, what HE said!!! Fess up guys! There's a whole new generation that needs to learn that the rule book is a list of ways in which they don't want things done. Not a list of things that you CAN'T do!

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          • #6
            Hmnnnn...I mean I'm not done cheating...I mean interpretting......I mean bending......I mean...........

            JIM

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            • #7
              I will say Smokey Yunick "learned" me a lot!!

              JIM

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              • #8
                Yea you guys learned it and taught it to me. Ronnie the belt comes off the Vette around 6500 rpm to this day! lol. I remember Jim taking a dual point distributor and separate the two points with a toggle switch.He would set the primary points at 40 degree timing and when you toggled in the second set the timing would drop to 36 or 34 degrees. Leave the line on the primary points and switch the toggle immediately after shifting into 3rd, had to be a bit coordinated but it was almost like hitting a NOS button. Great trick!

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                • #9
                  Well played donnie!!! It sure works!!!

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                  • #10
                    for years my standard has been Bolt on Lakewood or ce, j-bolt traction bars, work great, ride rough as hell, look cool,

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                    • #11
                      But as I moved into trying to be more stealth, I took em off and went to a 4 degree wedge, which really worked well on the ole first gen f-body, and factory springs, cheapo gas shocks, with extensions to allow more separation, Ive had some pretty good 60s, with that setup and its stealth,
                      so after working with Jodie Crocker and Johnie humpries, ( They spent the money) on cal-tracs set ups, I got to thinkn and looking around, cause cal-tracs or not stealth,

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                      • #12
                        SOOOOOO, how about a stealth cal-trac, actually the first time I saw it was back in the 80s, some dude from Athens, had a really fast 2nd gen Camaro, he ran at track on the street, no traction bars, so one day im doing my usual eye balling and I get on knee to look at this thing, I actually saw pull him wheels with no visible traction devices, and that's when I saw his secret, I saw it again in the 90s on a couple stockers at nhra event, and I found it in one of my early 60s Hot Rod articles, no need to reinvent the wheel, now, it rides rough ass hell like traction bars, I actually prefer wedges and shock extensions for a true street car, but for a stealth low mileage trailer car, im good with this

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                        • #13
                          Yeah, that's gotta bind quite a bit, doesn't it?

                          Although I could see how it would work. If possible, wouldn't putting it further inboard help with the stealthiness? I know there can be a lot of other stuff get in the way though.

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                          • #14
                            im going to cure the bind by adding a different rear end bracket, with a small slider slot, that wil cure bind and give it some drive ability, it can even be locked down at the track and loosened for the street,

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                            • #15
                              I saw one back in the 90's at the Fastest Street Car shootout in Memphis. The guy's uncle was part of the Ramchargers and had set up his 2nd gen Camaro for him. He had upper links going through the floorpan and had a tube welded across the area under the rear seat.He notched the driveshaft tunnel like a halfmoon and layed the tubing in the notch. The links attached to the tube as upper bars of a 4 link. He had lower links that ran dead parallel with the leaf springs. You had to look real close to notice them.

                              Sucker launched clean and straight everytime.

                              JIM

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